Cru Bourgeois – Association of Wine Educators

The wines of the Cru Bourgeois classification are for me some of the most reliably good value reds from Bordeaux and I have therefore, over the years, regularly sought them out for tastings and to drink myself. Aside from the quality, one of the things which really stands out in a region where ‘the mystic of wine’ is still a thing is the transparency and clarity of the classification.

Talking to Armelle Cruse was a breath of fresh air. She’s the Vice President of the Alliance of the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc, and owner and wine-maker of Château du Taillan, one of 14 Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel status. She explained what each château must do to qualify and, believe me, the application is not an insignificant amount of work both in the vineyard and in the office. You have to be very much committed to it.

The wines must come from one of 8 appellations: Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc, Margaux, St-Julien, Pauillac and St-Estèphe

They must have an Environmental Certification of at least Level 2

The wines must have a tasting analysis approved, tasted blind by two separate juries each of between of 5-10 judges, and tasting 5 different vintages

For the 2020 classification, the wine must have been approved as Cru Bourgeois at least 5 times from 2008-2016.

There are more and stricter rules for the higher levels of the classification, as you would expect, which also include marketing, distribution and being able to receive visitors at the property. Cruse suggested that there might be a few properties which could be graded more highly because the wine deserves it, but that the dossier needs to be more detailed. Basically, if you’re doing something special or innovative in your vineyard or winery, shout about it, make sure the judges know. At 50 pages, this must be a daunting and time consuming effort but, she suggests, get the whole team involved, share the load and the expertise to submit a strong case.

Cruse repeatedly referred to the classification as a family, and emphasised the variety within it. ‘It isn’t about a style of wine but about balance depending on the terroir, grape blend and vintage’. Certainly tasting the 2022’s, the wines varied from fruity, unoaked and easy-drinking to intense, full-bodied with great ageing potential and, inevitably, twice the price. The change from approved Cru Bourgeois properties being labelled all the same to now having the three different levels makes absolute sense, as well as the wines being judged on a series of vintages rather than just one. The new classification of 2025 has had châteaux submitting wines from each vintage of 2017 through to 2021. This allows the judges to take into account localised vintage variation, which is all too common in Bordeaux, but also means that a property can’t hide behind one great year. Cruse, of course, hopes to keep her Exceptionnel label and says she could not have done more. Her 2022 showed an abundance of pure ripe fruit, rounded, generous and smooth with fine oak and a lively lift for a beautiful balance – I wish her luck for the 2025 classification.

The Alliance is dynamic, innovative and transparent, the wines giving pleasure whether it is a ‘casual’ or richer wine and, of course, that all important quality for price. Cruse shows a passion, not uncommon among wine-makers, it’s true, but hers is not only for her wine but for the whole classification and those who participate in it. There are many well-known names within it such as Châteaux Beaumont and Cissac, and a few which pointedly don’t subscribe. But as Cruse says, they may not have the same values, one of which is to be proud of being part of the Cru Bourgeois family, this community in the Médoc; they may be more interested in creating and maintaining their own brand.

I look forward to seeing the 2025 classification and to continue to use Cru Bourgeois wines to illustrate Bordeaux’s variety, charm and value. In the meantime, here’s a few of my favourites from the 2022 vintage. Please note, it is not an exhaustive list!

Cru Bourgeois

Ch Chantemerle Médoc

Ch La France Delhomme Médoc

Ch Vieux Robin Médoc

Ch d’Arcins Haut-Médoc

Ch Magnol Haut- Médoc

Cru Bourgeois Supérieur

Ch La Cardonne Médoc

Ch Laujac Médoc

Ch Beaumont Haut-Médoc

Ch Paloumey Haut-Médoc

Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel